Tuesday, June 17, 2014

This Blog has Moved

I have officially moved this blog to my website. The new location is http://www.porcelynne.com/zencart/blog/.

If you wish to continue to get updates, you can go to the new site and sign up to get notifications. The 2 blogs are not linked and I will no be posting any additional updates to this site.

Thanks for following.


Thursday, June 12, 2014

Still doing prep work

Thank you everyone for sending me your measurements. I have been swamped with work this week. I got my first production account and am operating without any employees currently. I really need to hire someone again. LIKE YESTERDAY!

I finished the grading of my 3 piece cup, so this weekend I will send each of you that sent me messages 2-3 cup patterns to test. I know some of those measurements are strange, but I'm experimenting with measurements. I know they aren't measurements you would normally take, hence the experimentation.

I'm thinking that with the new book and directions I'll have illustrations of what you might look like in your bra, which can tell me if you are wearing the wrong band, cup size or both. Like I said, its all an experiment.

I have also been hesitant to write too much on this blog, because I'm trying to add a blog within my website with wordpress. My site is built with ZenCart, which is awesome for all the inventory stuff, but the wordpress integration is just time consuming (meaning I can't get my husband to take time to help me implement it). He has made a bunch of changes to ZenCart to customize it for me, so just copying and pasting the code won't work.

Ahh. Anyway, there are a few more days to send me measurements. Remember, if you don't understand them all, do what you can and I'll decipher it.

I hope you all have a wonderful weekend.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Measuring for our patterns

I have been working diligently on creating about 150 sizes of my 3 piece bra cup to cover sizes 28A through 50J (Sizes AA and AAA are also being created for many band sizes). Because it takes several hours to grade each pattern piece, I'm going to start my sew along with a little testing of directions for measuring. 

Each person who wishes to participate in my sew along with my pattern pieces, I am asking them to give me their results from different measurements. This will be helpful when I write the update to my bra book and also help me send you the right pattern to test. 

After I select a size for you test, I will send you 2-3 sizes based on your measurements and ask you to sew together one cup in muslin to test for the best fit and size. This won't be a perfect fit because I'm not designing the bra to be sewn in a woven, but in a power mesh with a stretch lace. 

The reason I want the sample cup in the woven is because it is not forgiving and will tell me which size you are meant to fit into. Providing the initial fit samples don't have major problems, I will then send you the remainder of the pattern to fit the appropriate cup size we selected for you. This gives me time to finish grading the band patterns.

While all this is going on, I will be putting together a sewing kit with fabrics, laces, trims and anything else you will need to sew a bra together. Once we have your size, I can include the most appropriate underwire for you to use. 

Ok. So now that you know the conditions, here are the first set of directions for you. Lets take your measurements!

Feel free to fill out this info and email me at jennifer at porcelynne (.) com. If I have a moment to breathe this week, I'll try to do an illustration of the measurements. If you don't fully understand, just indicate it in the comments and I'll try to clarify it as much as possible.

1. Your current bra size. If it varies for brands, give me 2-3 examples of sizes from different manufacturers.

2. Your under bust measurement. Snug measurement.

3. Your bust measurement. Not snug, your breast tissue is soft so it will crease easily.

4. Your chest (over bust) measurement. Snug measurement.

5. Wearing your bra, measure from the side of your bust at the center front of your body across the apex and over to the far side of the bust. This is the full amount to where the breast tissue ends. For large cups, it may measure close to being under your arm. You can also use your existing bras as a gauge and measure to where the underwire ends. If you are getting a couple different measurements, just explain the measurements and give the amounts.

6. Not wearing a bra, with your breast sitting high or hanging low, it doesn't matter. Measure from the point where the breast leaves the body, either the beginning of the mountain or where gravity makes the breast form a pull downwards. Measure straight across the body to the other side of the breast tissue.

These numbers will help me determine how accurate measurements are and how they relate to the bra itself.

Happy measuring.

BTW- I'm in the process of moving my blog over to my main website, so I'll include an update on this blog when I transition it over. If you follow it here, you will have to change to following it over there. 

Friday, May 30, 2014

Quick Post - Bra Sew Along Coming Soon

I wanted to announce that I will be doing a bra sew along to test out my 3 piece bra cup. I will be giving my test pattern for free for all who want to sew along with me. I will post up next week about checking your size so you can request a pattern to sew with me. I promise to write an update soon. Its been one hell of a year so far!

Thursday, January 2, 2014

Looking back on 2013

I have to say that 2013 was an amazing yet challenging year for me. Looking back, I would probably do some things differently in respects to my business. I learned that starting a new business with a newborn is really really stupid. There, I said it.

On one hand, I learned that life changes with a baby and I can no longer do everything on my own. I learned my limitations. On the other hand, I learned how to be a mother and how to balance both business and family.

Even though I say I would do things differently, I don't think I would be where I am had I not done things as they played out.

The Good of 2013

1. I got to know the little girl who will one day be a great woman (my daughter, of course).
2. I made some amazing friends in both my community and through my business.
3. I created new business partnerships - finding amazing teachers and volunteers to work with.
4. I learned about my small town communities, both in Redlands and Forest Falls.
5. I made some great financial investments in inventory and fixtures.

The Bad of 2013

Along with starting a new business comes the sacrifices.
1. I sacrificed spending time with my family.
2. I sacrificed working on the books I planned to write.
3. I sacrificed financial freedom.
4. I sacrificed completing our home renovation.

The Plan for 2014

I have been making preparations for several months in order to take some time away from my business to spend with my parents. I moved out at 18 and haven't spent much time around them in 20 years. Now that my daughter is becoming aware, I want her to get to know her grandparents and I want to get to know my parents again.

I've been weighing the pros and cons of my business. Luckily, the pros outweigh the cons, so I've stepped past the point where I was considering closing up shop. I have way too much time and money invested in the business to just walk away. I feel like the business is on the verge of doing something great and I can't give up on it yet.

I signed a new lease for a new location and we will be moving at the end of February. It scares the crap out of me to sign a 2 year lease, but it is reassuring that my rent will be the same as what we are paying now.

Over the next year, I plan to bring on a few business partners so I can spend more time with my family and write those darn books!

Other than that, I plan to have more adventures with my family.

I hope you all have a wonder 2014. I have confidence that this year will be a prosperous year for those of us who work hard.

Monday, December 30, 2013

Grading a 3 piece cup - Part 2

I really thought this would be an easy process for grading a single bust diameter into different bands. Boy was I mistaken. Because its 3 pieces and not 2, I couldn't even really refer to my book, except for how much the circumference of the cup changes.

I have now officially spend 7 hours on this today! And I found a little mistake from yesterday's grading, but it was only in the notch placement on the top cup. The walking and walking and measuring and measuring is about to drive me mad.

My only fear at this point is sewing one of each size. I am planning to create a full range of sizes from 28A through 50something. I figure I'll make up to what I have underwires for. If I have a need for larger sizes, I'll have to have some new underwires made.

I am seriously exhausted, but in the mean time I spent 5 minute breaks throughout the day setting up my new computer. Oh yeah, I got a new computer.

Its a touch screen one, but I am still having trouble figuring it out. I'm just opting right now to use the touchpad. And don't get me started on Windows 8. All I can say "What the hell were they thinking?"

Luckily I was able to get my student/teacher version of CS4 running on the new computer even though I had installed one of the programs previously on my other laptop. Maybe it reported to Adobe that I uninstalled it from the other laptop. Lets hope. I loaded the program and it accepted my key code, so I'm crossing my fingers for no issues.

Anyway, here are images of what I did today with my illustrator grade rules.

Sunday, December 29, 2013

Grading the 3 piece cup

I have spent the better part of 2 full days figuring out the grading for my 3 piece bra cup. I graded one band size for 4 cup sizes by hand last week. I spend most of yesterday determining that my measurements were not exact enough. I finished yesterday thinking I had corrected everything.

I had walked the interior seams of the cup and they all matched after many many changes. I realized when I left work that I had neglected the walk the outer seams with the band. Duh! Well, that took another 8 hours today. I am finally satisfied with my grade "rules" that I will begin grading other band sizes this week.

This is what my final graded 36 band looks like. If you can figure it out, go right ahead and be my guest to use my grade rules. I graded everything in Illustrator so I can make pdf patterns to print for classes.

I had started to write grading directions for this cup, but after the last 16 hours spent on this, someone would have to pay me lots of money to do that, or I would have to have a ridiculous amount of free time.

I don't think either are happening anytime soon so here you go.